Instructions for Changing the Radiator?

[12Ounce]

The engine area is normally pretty hot, especially if driving around town and the fans are kicking in. If you are using the ac, that's even more heat. A pin-hole leak in the radiator doesn't help at all ... just adds hot-water/steam to the mix ... steam is very effective at warming things up.

But you should check to make sure you don't have an exhaust manifold leak ... that would dump even more heat in there.

[maz2000]

Thanks for the suggestion on the exhaust leak. I suppose there are two exhaust manifolds, one for each bank......are they all prong to leak?

[Bmwlover540i]

Yes they are prone to leaking....trust me.
I just had mine replaced for $700 a piece!
Its not the gasket either...its the man itself.

Also the durtec is a hott running engine. I put a failsafe therm in mine which is a 193 instead of a 195 OE one. I figured the 2 degrees will not affect the loops or MPG at all just help my engine keep a little cooler in the 110 degree heat we like to have. lol

[maz2000]

Thanks, BWMlover, what's the brand and part # of your 193 thermo?

i am also considering changing out the spark plugs and wires (the van just passed 100K mark), for those of you who've done it, could you please recommend a good brand for the wires and plugs?

Is it necessary to change out the coil pack? My van is 2000, there's coil pack in the back. Thanks.

[12Ounce]

I used the "best" wires AutoZone had. I think I used Champion plugs ...not sure. You will be able to reroute/redress the plug wires ... putting them in a better location than original ... keeping them further away from engine metal.

Plan to remove the upper air intake manifold ... makes everything more accessable ... and you will find much in there to clean.

Our 2000 still has original pack @ 180 kmiles.

[Jonathan Landrum]

Rockauto.com has a radiator now for under $100 in addition to the one for $150 or so by Spectrum Premium. Any reason to stay away from the cheaper one?

Thanks.

Jonathan

[kooter57]

WWell, you get what you pay for. I just got the $150 spectre premium one fed-exxed to me today from rockauto and was very pleased with it. I've seen the cheap ones arrive brand new that look like a potato chip they're so warped.

Nice pics on the rad swap; I had to chuckle when I saw the bumper and headlights off. I have a 2000 and just unbolted the fan from the radiator, loosened the supports, took the hood latch off and lifted the radiator right out after disconnecting the hoses. Seems overkill to take the whole front end off of the car. Just have to be clever with some of the hose clamps.

It snot that hard! probably saves some time that you could be flossing your teeth instead, or cleaning up your temporary internet files folder, or even cleaning the microwave. I mean how often do you clean your microwave anyways? Or the fridge too?! Damn my fridge is dirty.

[Dano18]

Thanks for the instructions

[Dietrich]

Hello fellow MPV'ers,
I've got a decent coolant leak which seems to originate from somewhere under the two hoses on the upper right (passenger) engine-side of the radiator. I've found a new radiator locally for $130, I'm told the brand is a Vista Pro, and I intend to give it a go over the Thanksgiving holiday.

Any other 'while you're in there...' items I should be aware of?

Is the best approach still to take the front end apart for access (vs from the top/engine side)?

Are all the radiators 'the same' in configuration for a 2000 MY? (I'm a little fuzzy on the topic of oil coolers.)

Any experience with the Vista Pro brand? ($145 on RockAuto.)

My MPV is a 2000 LX, 132k, with rear climate control.

Thanks to all the contributors of this forum!
Cheers,

[Dietrich]

Got the new radiator in over the break. I did pull the front bumper skin off 'per the book', which proved a rather easy task. Probably the hardest part of the whole project was getting to all the necessary hose clamps. Those spring-loaded hose clamps are tedious, aren't they? I replaced a couple of them with good ol' worm gear clamps. I replaced the upper rad house as a PM item even though the original seemed to be in good shape (132k miles). A gallon of 50/50 coolant mix was pretty much the perfect amount required to refill the system. I added coolant over the course of an hour or so to let the system displace any air. I also ran it without the rad cap but it didn't seem to burp anymore after the slow fill process. I had the front wheels on ramps, which I presume helped bleed the system too. Heater is blowing plenty of hot air.

The Chinese built "Vista-Pro" replacement radiator from 1-800-radiator ($130 w/ tax & and local delivery) seemed to be of good quality, but was notably thinner than the OE radiator. This was disappointing - I don't think the aftermarket ought to be deciding that an OE radiator is 'too big' and can be safely downsized. I presume this is done to reduce materials cost. I don't know, maybe Mazda did the same thing in years after my 2000 was built.

One note on removing the turn signal housings - be sure to pull the units straight forward on removal in order to not damage the 3 or so mounting tabs. It seems the previous owner hadn't followed this as several of my mounting tabs were damaged/broken.

Just thought I'd chime in with experience - hopefully other newbs will be encouraged. Thanks to the previous contributors in this thread.

Cheers,

[brewster]

Thanks for all the input for this tedious project. I'll add my suggestions to the list.
The side lights were hard to remove. I was sure there was another fastener somewhere. But the socket in the headlight which accepts a ball on the sidelight, being old plastic, was stiff and brittle. One of the 4 tabs broke on each light by the time I got them out. They need to come out to gain access to a plastic rivet for the bumper. The lights seem secure enough back in place with the missing tabs.
The grill was stubborn. There are hooks/tabs going down on the 2 large molded pins that go into the horizontal brace the hood latch is on. I nearly broke them. A simple lift up during removal helps. Sounds simple enough but it is counter intuitive with all the other tabs around the perimeter.
The push pin rivets in the wheel wells are not worth your time. Drill them out or lop them off with a sharp wood chisel and replace with these. Very cheap: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XP5HNM0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Upper and lower radiator hoses are best removed from thermostat housing and connecting tube by careful cutting with razor knife. No way you want to start twisting and pulling at those somewhat fragile connections. And you don't want to risk scratching the metal (creating a possible leak) with a screw driver or other blade. Just replace the hoses. I cut them off close to the connection, then pulled up with pliers while I sliced through; not the slightest scratch. I actually took the fan housing out complete with the bigger hoses.
You can see in the picture where the crack was. It is right next to a mounting bracket for the fan housing. My theory is that with the expansion and contraction of the aluminum radiator over the thousands of hot/cold cycles, the wall of the plastic tank developed the crack since it was close to the area of torque stress.
I bought a Denso radiator and it fit very well, except the holes in the tabs of the fan housing did not quite have the clearance I would think is correct when bolting to the radiator mounting brackets. I could have persuaded the bolts to go in, but chose to slot the holes a bit with a round file. See photo. Wish I had made the slots a bit bigger to allow even more expansion/contraction.

[ChelseaArc]

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