Instructions for Changing the Radiator?

mazda-fla · MPVClub Preacher Joined: 23 Feb 2004 Posts: 738

8. Remove Transmission Cooler hoses. After you remove them, it is a good idea to plug the hoses with something so you don't get anything in the hoses and contaminate the transmission fluid. I used a couple of plastic bags and rubber bands to seal the hoses off. Any kind of plugs, plastic bags, or whatever. Just to keep junk from getting into those hoses, which would wind up getting into your transmission fluid.

mazda-fla · MPVClub Preacher Joined: 23 Feb 2004 Posts: 738

9. Now you have all the prerequisites removed, and are ready to go to work on the radiator.

mazda-fla · MPVClub Preacher Joined: 23 Feb 2004 Posts: 738

10. Remove the small nut holding the line to the condensor radiator.

mazda-fla · MPVClub Preacher Joined: 23 Feb 2004 Posts: 738

11. Slightly pull the condensor radiator forward. This will give you room to lift out the main radiator. Then, remove the two electrical plugs for the two fan motors.

mazda-fla · MPVClub Preacher Joined: 23 Feb 2004 Posts: 738

12. Carefully lift out the entire main radiator, fan shroud, fan assembly, and various hoses as a complete unit. Be carefull when you pull it out, because your don't want to damage or puncture the condensor radiator for the A/C.

mazda-fla · MPVClub Preacher Joined: 23 Feb 2004 Posts: 738

13. Set the old radiator down. You will need to move all the various parts, hoses, fan shroud, etc. over to the new radiator core. Set the new radiator next to the old one, then just start carefully move the parts over one by one.

mazda-fla · MPVClub Preacher Joined: 23 Feb 2004 Posts: 738

14. Reinstall the radiator and the rest of the parts in the reverse order.

15. Then flush and refill with new coolant based on the standard instructions in your owner's manual.

dman67 · Newbie Joined: 25 Aug 2007 Posts: 4

These are GREAT photos on the radiator replacement, Thanks!!! I'm stuck midstream of the radiator replacement however. I can't seem to get one of the hose connections loose Mad

Anybody else gone through with this and have a suggestion?

Bmwlover540i

I just cut the hose off! Laughing

But then again I had a new hoses I was putting on so I did not care. lol

I would say twist and pull hard!

mazda-fla · MPVClub Preacher Joined: 23 Feb 2004 Posts: 738

That part is steel and gets a lot of corrosion over the years. What I did was just get a small screwdriver, and carefully wedged it between the hose and the steel connector, and worked it loose.

If you can't remove it from there without damaging it, and you aren't planning to replace the hose. Then you could just remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator itself, and just push it out of the way. Since the connector on the radiator side is plastic, it doesn't get as corroded as the steel connector side.

12Ounce · MPVClub Addict Joined: 19 Aug 2007 Posts: 1745

Great tutorial! Glad you got that camera.

On hose removal: To follow up on BMWlover540i's comment; I always first twist back-and-forth to break the hose loose from the metal barb ... before doing any pulling. Sometimes loose-joint pliers or even a pipe wrench is used for twisting leverage.

dman67 · Newbie Joined: 25 Aug 2007 Posts: 4

Thanks for the input guys!!! I finally got it off (after about 15 minutes and a LOT of cussing) Laughing

I basically did what Mazda-fla did and just wedged a tiny screwdriver from back of that hose prying forward and finally broke the seal.

I appreciate all the help gents!

maz2000 · Full Member Joined: 05 Apr 2005 Posts: 115

mazda-fla:

I think I am having a leaky radiator as well, the kind of leak that Ashley had. And thanks for your write-up for the replacement procedure. Got one question about the ATF oil lines. The replacement of radiator inevitably would introduce air pocket in the ATF oil line, how did you burp the ATF line? or I don't need to worry. Please advise. Thanks.

12Ounce · MPVClub Addict Joined: 19 Aug 2007 Posts: 1745

I replaced a MPV radiator last week. There is no concern about an "air pocket" ... the tranny fluid normally in the radiator cooler is on its way back to the pan in the tranny ... so the "pocket" quickly disappears.

Very little tranny fluid volume is lost in the process ... a couple of ounces perhaps. But it is always wise to check the tranny fluid level once you are running again.

maz2000 · Full Member Joined: 05 Apr 2005 Posts: 115

I just put an order online for the radiator (P2330, seems it's Spectra Premium one made in Canada, not so sure). I also wanted to replace the thermostat, did you do that as well? do you think it'd be better off using an OEM thermostat?

My van is a 2000 LX, even though it has this leak, and is losing coolant, but I keep a close watch on the coolant level. My confusion is that (1) the engine compartment seems to be pretty hot, i mean, I can not put my hands on the intake manifold after around town, the fan kicks in a lot, but the temp gauge is not moving up. Is the hot engine compartment normal? I recall the intake manifold was just warm to the touch. The pin-hole leaking should not cause much pressure loss, so I am worried that might be another cause to the hot engine compartment. I am puzzled over this.

I'll change out the radiator and thermostat, and see if the engine compartment is still hot........(strange thing....it's hot, but coolant temp gauge is not showing). Any thoughts, anyone?